Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
